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Cams: Your essential buying guide
Start with the crack sizes you expect to protect most often and the gaps in your current rack. Many climbers build a set around mid-range sizes before adding micro cams or very large cams for more specialised routes.
Single-axle cams are often compact and can suit narrower placements, while double-axle cams can offer a broader usable range in some designs. The best option depends on the placement types you climb and the specific manufacturer’s sizing system.
Micro cams can be useful in thin cracks, but they demand careful placement and an understanding of rock quality, expansion range and fall direction. If you are new to trad climbing, seek qualified instruction and practise placements before relying on them.
There is no single number that suits every route. Shorter climbs may need only a small selection, while longer or more crack-heavy routes can require doubles in common sizes. Route style, guidebook advice and your partner’s rack all affect what you carry.
Compare size range, weight, stem flexibility, trigger feel, colour coding, sling length and how clearly the cam shows its safe operating range. For safety-critical kit, also check current standards, manufacturer instructions and whether replacement slings or servicing are available.
Choosing cams is about matching protection to the cracks you climb and building a rack that is easy to place, inspect and carry. This guide highlights the main features to compare when shopping for cams within Sports > Climbing > Cams.
Cam sizing varies between brands, so avoid choosing by colour alone unless you are comparing within the same range. Look at the stated expansion range and think about the cracks you most often encounter.
For a first or smaller rack, versatile mid-range cams are often more widely useful than very small or very large sizes. Micro cams, offset cams and big cams can then fill specific gaps for particular rock types or routes.
Flexible stems can help cams sit better when placements are not perfectly straight, while rigid-feeling designs may be easier for some climbers to handle quickly. Think about how the cam will behave if the rope pulls it in a particular direction.
Double-axle designs may provide a wider usable range in some models, while single-axle cams can feel compact and precise. Compare the actual dimensions and manufacturer information rather than assuming one design is always better.
Good colour coding, a clear trigger action and a shape that is easy to grab from a carabiner can make a difference when you are placing gear on lead. If you already own cams, choosing compatible sizes and colours may make your rack easier to read.
Weight matters on long routes, but the lightest option is not automatically the most practical. Balance low weight with durability, handling comfort and the range of sizes you need to protect the climb.
Cams are safety-critical equipment, so inspect lobes, axles, triggers, cables and slings regularly. Retire any cam that is damaged, heavily worn or not functioning smoothly, and follow the manufacturer’s guidance for cleaning and maintenance.
If you are comparing used or discounted cams, be especially careful about age, wear and service history. Never rely on equipment if you are unsure of its condition or suitability for the climb.
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